- Edit (TBD)
Description
The first 5.10 at Poke-O and a classic climb. Combining a long technical traverse with a discontinuous vertical crack.
Start by climbing The Snake(5.4). Walk to the far right of the ledge (careful some easy exposed moves) to a bolted anchor.
P1: 5.10b G 130' A long technical traverse right. Follow the dike past a poison ivy bush to a first set of anchors [Deuteronomy 5.11b]. Keep going right until you see two bolts rising up and right to the upper dike [crux]. Once at the good holds of the upper dike move right to a somewhat thrilling section [small gear]. Pass another bolt before finally reaching the bolted rap anchor. The line of bolts above are for [No Higher Authority 5.11d G 110']. Rappel from here with doubles to the ground or with a single rope to the top anchors of The Howling (climbers left).
P2: 5.10a PG (5.7 X) 150' Head out right to a left side of a large, detached and flexing flake. Climb up (5.7 X) to the top to find an old rusted 1/4" bolt. (There is gear everywhere but the flake is highly suspect. Especially in the middle.) Gain a shallow discontinuous crack and follow it to the top, where you'll find bolted rap anchors. Most parties rap from here. A single 70m rope gets you to the P1 anchors... Just barely. Tie knots!!!
P3: 5.6 R 140' Continue up the crack, then left along a slab to the final exit corner.
Walk off left to descent gully.
Location
Far right side of the Snake ledge.
Protection
Single rack up to #3 Camalot. A medium size RP & C3 are useful for last section of the traverse.
Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
- 24Freedom Flight5.10bTrad