- Edit (TBD)
Description
For the hidden sport climber in all you trad climbers.
Pitch 1: Casual Observer starts on what looks to be a dirty face roughly 30 feet to the left of the Fastest Gun. Once on it, however, you will be graced with a technical sequence that leads to a traversing crux directly below the menacing flake/chimney hanging above.
Style your way into the chimney and either place a cam and a nut (a blue Alien works well) or brave the secure, but short, runout up to the next bolt out to the left, right before you exit the chimney.
Pull out of the chimney on steep and pumpy moves in a positive crack system. Place a couple small TCUs (blue, yellow, and orange work best) and continue up the less strenuous face to the chain anchors. (5.10- / 90 feet)
Many parties stop here and rap, but if you want to continue on...
Pitch 2: Climb up the face on the arete, then trend right into the corner.
Make some difficult, but well-protected moves up the corner, until it is possible to step left to a good belay. (5.10+ / 80 feet) Note: For this pitch carry a single rack of cams up to a yellow Camalot.
Make two rappels to the ground, or carry two ropes and make one, long rappel to the ground.
Location
30 feet to the left of the Fastest Gun on a bolt protected face below a giant flake/chimney.
Protection
10 bolts on the first pitch, plus supplemental gear. Carry a dozen QDs and a single rack to #2 Camalot. Be sure to bring #1-#3 TCUs, and a small assortment of stoppers.
Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
- 52Casual Observer5.11aTrad