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Peak Mountain 3

Chile Verde

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Description

P1. Climb a shallow corner past a small, gnarled juniper to a small overhang. Climb through the overhang on the right side and continue past another small overhang to a spacious ledge (Juniper Ledge) with another tree on it. Belay at a pair of new bolts. Long pitch.

P2. Above the belay, climb the steep face and left facing dihedral capped by a small roof. Once over the roof, follow cracks to the top. Much of the second pitch is 4th class climbing. Belay at another pair of bolts near the top.

To descend, it is possible to rappel the route with a pair of ropes. Better, though, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail. Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.

Location

Located near the center of the wall where the access trail intersects the base of the crag. Look for an obvious black water streak. Chile Verde starts at the left facing dihedral to the left of the streak.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Bolted belays.