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Peak Mountain 3

Commie Pinkos

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Description

Commie Pinkos is a great beginners route - good climbing with plenty of protection.

P1. Climb a medium sized flake to a face that leads up to a decent belay stance. There is an old, gnarled juniper tree next to the belay with rappel slings wrapped around it. The climbing is easy and straight forward.

P2. Continue up from the belay stance to the summit ridge above. The climbing is generally easier the farther right you stay. The route can be a little confusing at the top - stay to the right of a small gully splitting the top of the crag and belay on a ledge left of a big juniper tree.

To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail. Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.

Location

Located on the far left side of the crag (hence the name,  it's as far left as you can get.) Further to the left, the crag turns into a broken talus slope. Start near the uppermost of two large pine trees near the base of the wall.

Protection

Standard trad rack.