- Edit (TBD)
Description
A "must do" for first-time visitors to the Adirondacks, steep for the grade with some nice exposure.
Pitch 1: Start this route on the off-width size crack that leads to the large belay. (5.7 / 40 feet) You can also reach this spot by easy 5th class on the flake/chimney on the right.
Pitch 2: Leave the belay and head off right aiming to turn the roof. The crux moves lead past this roof (bolt), then finish up easier ground to the rim of the cliff. (5.8+ PG / 110 feet)
Enjoy the big air below you, strenuous and thoughtful climbing all over the route, and clean rock abound.
History: This route was one of the classics of the region until the roof collapsed in 2008, taking with it the only protection through this section. What remained was a lone, unstable tooth hanging from the [now higher] roof. This finally fell too. A bolt was added in 2016, reinstating this classic upper pitch.
Location
In the center of the Lower Beer Walls, about 200 feet to the left of the Pats' Blue Ribbon alcove is a large detached flake leaning against the cliff. This is it.
Protection
A standard rack with a nice variety of passive pro. Long slings and a couple cordelettes. If you want to rap this route, bring a tag line, or climb with doubles.
Routes in Lower Beer Wall
- 17Pegasus5.8+Trad