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Peak Mountain 3

Wandering Lunatic

FA Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd (TR) 9/8/88
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route used to be a top-rope climb until Steve Mergenthaler and Todd Morgan bolted it in 2003, and it forces you to wander (thus the name of the route) a bit to reach each bolt.Reach the start of the climb by 4th-classing your way up to the ledge at the base of The Sword. A belay can be set up below the face with a couple of green and red Camalots.The section between the 1st and 2nd bolt is PG13, as a fall from here would have you landing on your belayer almost definitely!Now, climb up past 7 bolts to a crux comfortably placed right above the 6th bolt.Clear the top of the route and walk back about 5 yards to the trees to build an anchor. (Note: At the time of this entry there are no fixed anchors at the top of this route.)

Location

About 100 yards to the right of Rockaholic up a not-so-obvious gully that turns into 4th class terrain.

Protection

7 bolts. Gear for the belayer.