Teeter Totter Pillar

If you've ever wandered across Broadway Ledge en route to

The Notch

or

Kiener's Route

, then you've likely noticed the striking pillar dissected by an offwidth crack. This is the first pitch of Teeter Totter Pillar and this route exemplifies what a true "mountain" route is like. This outing is a classic, Chamonix-esque, alpine endeavor on a 4000m peak. This route has it all- moderate snow, copious 3rd and 4th Class terrain, challenging rock climbing, complex route finding and an exhilarating finish above 14,000'. I guess the term "adventure route" could be applicable, but to me, it felt like a pretty standard, yet interesting, alpine route....

Approach:

climb Lamb's Slide from above Chasm Lake to reach Broadway Ledge. Traverse Broadway Ledge generally staying lower than higher when in doubt until nearly at

The Notch

. The last pillar before reaching

The Notch

is Teeter Totter Pillar. Look for the striking OW splitting the pillar.

P1: 100', 5.8.

This is the physical crux of the route. Gain the offwidth crack from the left on easy ledges. Work up the crack on good hand jams, and eventually squirm up the offwidth using occasionally fortuitous faceholds on the left or right. Belay when the crack leads to an obvious ledge at 100'.

P2: 175', 5.8.

Continue up the crack on great hand jams passing a spooky flake. Arrive at a ledge that would make a great belay, but there is no gear... keep working up the crack to crux moves that involve a mossy crack and underclings. Keep working up the corner that wraps around to the north face. Arrive at a large, comfortable ledge. Save small cams and stoppers for the anchor.

P3: 100', 5.6.

Continue up the corner and look for the ledge out right. Catwalk across the ledge, and then head up left through the notch behind the pillar. This is an easy but cool pitch.

P4-P6: 300', low 5th Class.

From the notch behind the pillar, work up, finding the path of least resistance, to the northeast corner of the buttress. Climb to a point where the terrain steepens and passage to climber's right seems improbable. Using your alpine savvy, notice a line of just enough holds and good feet that lead into a 5.6 corner. A 000 C3 was crucial for us here. Belay on mid-to-large sized cams at the base of a mungy looking corner.

P7: 125', 5.7.

Work up the corner which climbs surprisingly well. There's some crack switches in there and eventually a low-angle wide bit that will protect well with the #4 Camalot you lugged up there... belay at large ledge.

Move the belay over and down 50'. This requires downclimbing and potentially downleading to a large, comfortable ledge on the southeast corner of the pillar.

P8: 175', 5.7.

Traverse on easy terrain toward the west. Work up a large crack that yields with clever use of some face holds out left. Continue up easy terrain to where the route merges with the ultimate pitch of

Eighth Route

. Trend back to the right, and belay in the middle of the slab on good medium/large cams.

P9: 100', 5.4.

Follow the crack north to the corner of the pillar. Look up and left. Follow large holds on the very exposed arete to the very summit of the Beaver. This is an exhilarating finish!

Descent:

either rappel once into the Notch, and then follow the Staircase to the summit of Long's Peak. From here, either descend the

North Face

or the Keyhole Route. The descent we chose was down to the Loft and down the Loft Bypass. It takes 2.5 hours from "summit" to car using Loft Bypass.

It is on the Upper East Face climbing the last pillar before

The Notch

.

A single rack to 4" with doubles 0.4-#2.