Kor's S'mores

I had long dreamed of linking

Kor's Door

on the Lower East Face to the upper wall and creating a 5.9 route all the way up Long's big east face (actually northeast-facing). I pitched this self-described "stupid idea" to Kelly Cordes in 2018, and he agreed to check it out. Fortunately, it turned out not to be stupid at all, though it did have two low-end 5.10 pitches, so the 5.9 dream was not realized. We did six pitches above Broadway leading to tundra atop the Beaver, the big formation left of the

Notch Couloir

. Some or even all of this may have been climbed before, but I've studied the history of Long's climbing pretty intensively (I wrote a book about it), and I'm sure this line has never been documented. Combined with

Kor's Door

, you'll do eight or nine pitches of good rock climbing up a logical, direct line.

Tip of the hat to Tim Stich for the great route name.

The excellent

Kor's Dor

route up the Lower East Face wanders in its last pitch but probably will deliver you to Broadway right below the line we climbed.

1. Climb moderate corners and cracks directly above Broadway (5.7/5.8). You're aiming for the right side of a prominent pillar/flatiron thing to the right of

The Eighth Route

. There may be better and/or easier ways to reach this. Move right below the foot of the flatiron to a belay beneath an attractive, right-facing corner system.

2. Climb the corner (5.10). Excellent stemming and face climbing with good small protection.

3. Move up to the base of the second pillar/flatiron, staying on the ridge crest. Belay high on the right side, because the next pitch is long. Most of this pitch is walking and could be scrambled, but it also goes quickly on a rope.

4. Climb the corner (5.10). Finger cracks lead up into the main corner system. Continue up to a steep, intimidating wide section. Fortunately, cracks inside the offwidth offer handholds and protection. It is a long pitch. Belay on top of the pillar.

5. Continue up the left side of the attractive low-angle ridge crest, then move up and right across the face of the buttress to a point where you can either climb directly through a roof thingie or move around to the right to a cool hand-traverse and face climbing exit. This is hard to describe, but it flows nicely, and it has a lovely airy position high over Chasm Lake, 5.8 or so.

6. End with a short, nondescript finishing pitch.

Descent: walk down the Beaver (easy) and downclimb the Loft. Be prepared for snow in early season.

Climb

Kor's Door

or any other route to reach Broadway to the left of the

Notch Couloir

, but, really, climb

Kor's Door

.

A standard alpine rack. The wide crack on the fourth pitch of the upper wall protects reasonably without a big piece (I'm pretty sure we didn't have anything bigger than a 3), but a 3.5 or 4 might be easier to place.