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Peak Mountain 3

East Buttress

FA Preston Rhea - 9.13.12
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The East Buttress is an easy but loose ridge climb up Torre De Mierda.

Easy face climbing leads to the ridge after two pitches. The route wanders up the ridge line always taking the path of least resistance. Follow the ridge to a headwall which is skirted to the south where a loose blocky chimney is climbed (5.4). This chimney is the second half of the last pitch of

Glass House

. Easy scrambling to the summit.

Location

It starts about 200' to the right (north) of the toe of the east buttress proper (which is easily identified by a large tombstone shaped recess on the toe).

To descend either downclimb (4-5th class) or rappel to either the notch to the north or the south of the southern summit of Torre De Mierda. Once in either notch, downclimb to the west down the gullies (3rd class).

Protection

The rack should consist of doubles in cams from .5-#2 and a single #3.


Routes in Torre De Mierda