Northeast Buttress

The Northeast Buttress is the original route on Torre de Mierda. It takes a fine line right up a buttress splitting the north face.

The first four pitches are straightforward and very fun. The rock is more solid here than elsewhere on the peak and in the area and the protection generally better as well. That said, as with all routes in the area: caution must be exercised. The route stays on the crest of the buttress, occasionally dipping slightly to one side or the other.

Pitches three and four are on a spectacular knife-edge arete with great exposure to either side. What is more unusual is the easiest climbing is on positive incut holds along the very crest.

After the knife-edge arete, the climbing drops into third class scrambling to the summit. Depending on where the belays are, it takes between four and five pitches to complete the technical climbing.

The route starts atop a white slab of chossy rock.

To descend, third class downclimbing to the south into the notch brings you to an easy gully. Follow this down to the west off the peak.

The rack should consist of doubles in cams from .4-#2, with a single #3.