“unknown”

If it were longer it would absolutely be maximum stars quality but even so it’s really good. Get into the flare and power up over a couple small roofs and through a brief splitter to the obvious jutting flake...which felt solid to pull/stand on but not sure I’d recommend pro’ing it up but perhaps the safest option is a med/large size nut on the right. The remainder of the difficulties are also finger size dependent as the crack slowly thins and the corner angle changes.

Larger sized hands will need to employ an alternate strategy for the last section where the fingers won’t fit, which leads me to recognize a serious safety hazard. Be VERY careful near the end when tempted to stem left to the obvious large flake. It is very hollow and is supporting a few more smaller even less stable flakes that touch the roof above.

I would recommend fixing a rope and crowbarring the entire mess of flakes off the wall (100’s of pounds). It’s a serious timebomb for sure. I climbed the route on 12/24/18 and removed an extremely loose keyed-in flake from its bottom and unfortunately that rained down a bunch of sand and bird shit, so whomever goes up next will need to brush much of the crack. Sorry. I think with the hollow/loose  flakes removed, the crack will no longer get sandy and this route will become a safe and timeless cliff classic!

Also, be careful when pulling the rope as to not get it wedged in that jutting flake...

Locate Metate/Mano...

This “unknown” route is on the opposite (right) side of that giant pillar leaning against the wall.

In progressive order of needed sizes (BD C4 Camalots): .75 - .5 - .4 - .3 - .2

Heaviest in the .4 and .5 and .3 sizes...having a couple alternate brands between the .4, .3 and .2 sizes will good