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Peak Mountain 3

Techni-Construction

FA Karl Kelley, Dylan Warren
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start in a tight chimney with some loose chockstones you have to pass through.  Staying on the outside of the chimney offers no pro other than big-bros, but its very enjoyable to go all the way in, where there is a twin set of cracks that accept good gear from fingers to hands.  Any of these options is around 5.10.

After pulling out of the chimney, you'll find a single modern bolt and drilled angle at the base of the looming off-width crack above.  This is the crux.  Enter the offwidth, resist the urge to step on the drilled piton, and make a few difficult moves before features on the right wall offer relief.  The final section of the route eases up to hands and fingers at a lower angle.

A fun and varied route thats well worth the effort.  Excellent chimneying and off-width are the hallmarks of this route.

Location

As you approach the cliff, this is to the right of Whale's Back and Sterling Silver (the bolted off-width).  Identify it by the tight chimney start with chockstones wedged inside, with the crack tapering to a clean off-width and hands crack at the top near the chains.  As of 10/2019, there is a tat anchor on good bolts visible from the ground.

Protection

0.5 to #5 camalot. Doubles in the 0.5 - 3 range. The offwidth itself best takes an old 4.5 camalot. A #4 is too tipped out, and a 5 is too tight, but if you bring 1-2 each of them, you'll find a place to slot them in. A few slings and quickdraws for rope-management and for the bolt protecting the opening moves of the offwidth.