- Edit (TBD)
Description
Old-school adventure climbing at its best--and not your typical outing at Sespe Gorge.
Those who don't mind the extra lichen and who aren't afraid of tricky gear will be richly rewarded by this route. The climbing is a big step up physically and psychologically from Ending Crack.
The route follows a single crack system that climbs nearly straight up the wall past several small trees.
At the top of P1, there are two hangars with rap rings.
Location
On the far right side of the Black Wall is a large, broken pillar that lays against the main face. About ten feet right of this pillar is a thin crack that runs straight upward past several small trees (including a 10-foot tall tree that is almost level with the top of the pillar).
APPROACH
To access the start of the route, first identify the gaping 4th-class gully that marks the end of the wall on the right hand side. From the creek, scramble directly up to the base of the gully. Traverse along a narrow ledge to the left to the base of the crack.
DESCENT
Descend Bee Line by rappelling the route with 2 ropes (2 raps are required from trees). There is a sling wad that incorporates two pitons and several small trees about mid-height on the wall. If the sling isn't your style, there are two hangars with rap rings to make things a bit easier. It is apparently also possible to descend the gaping, 4th-class gully to the right of the route.
Protection
tiny to 4" (double TCUs recommended), a few small trees. A dozen, or so, home-made pitons add extra character.
Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
- 16Bee Line5.7Trad