- Edit (TBD)
Description
A prominent and striking line up the arete at the far right end of the main wall. A classic gear protected runout face climb.
Easy but largely unprotected climbing up the arete with occasional gear opportunities mostly in horizontal cracks. You might want to double up those placements for some added security, too. Cast off again on the exposed arete, with a few 20 foot runouts.
Starting at the base of the wall, climb the arete directly up to a belay slightly off-route at the tree, or belay off gear near or above the tree. The second pitch is much more clean, fun, and exposed.
Location
Starts just left of the gaping "4th class" gully that marks the rightmost end of the main wall.
2 bolt anchor w/chains at the top of the route, and a slung oak tree halfway down the gully make for a quick descent. 2- 30m raps will get you down to the base.
Protection
A set of nuts and single set of cams from #0 TCU to 2 camalot will give you all the protection for the limited opportunities available. 2 bolt chain anchor on top.
Some ant spray might be nice at the top :)
Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
- 17Edge of Night5.7Trad