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Peak Mountain 3

Smitten By Kittens

FA Brandon Adams, Patrick Rizzo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

5.11c or 5.10 C1

Approach: 2 to 2.5 hours. Fisherman's trail towards Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne. Wildcat Point is the beautiful dome about a mile downstream of Glen Aulin.

Pitch 1: 10b, 100'

Start by a juniper at base of cliff. Leftward crack traverse to a tree and rooflet. Bolt protected lieback of a wide pod, then easier terrain to a ledge at the base of a splitter finger crack.

Pitch 2: 5.9, 160'

Follow beautiful crack up and right to a big ledge. Make an anchor on upper left side of ledge below impressive dihedral.

Pitch 3: 11c or 5.10 C1, 110'

Fingers and hands in corner. Tricky pull over onto the lower angle slab. Fire through the roof crack traverse for the next 20 or 30 feet. Cruxy climbing, make sure to mind rope drag. Access the glory hands corner then traverse over to a great perch on the arete. Anchor is a bolt and a #3 or #4 cam.

Pitch 4: 10b, 60'

Wide pod to good cracks that lead to a stance below the patina covered headwall.

Pitch 5: 5.8, 100'

Follow the groove and weakness leftward to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 6: 10a, 100'

Continue left following the crack through good climbing and a steeper section guarding the top out.

Look for a slung big tree just left of the top out. From there begin the six single 70m rope rappels back to the base. Three rappels down you will reach Terrapin Station, a large ledge. The fourth rappel station is reached by scrambling to the lower right side of the ledge.

Location

Starts just below giant dihedral, at juniper growing at cliff's base.

Protection

Doubles small to #2

Single #3 and #4

Nuts

70m rope

Many slings