California Corner

The name came from the conditions we experienced on route. It was during the rim fire and it was raining ash on us and super smokey out. It felt like the apocalypse!

Pitch Description:

Pitch 1: 5.7x

The approach pitch. Easy climbing leads to a 5.7 move with no pro on entire pitch that we could find. 200+ feet. Make a belay at the start of the corner.

Pitch 2: 5.9

The crux. Move up into the corner and negotiate some awkward wide climbing. After this bit the climbing eases to super enjoyable hands to offwidth clean corner climbing for 200 feet. 70 meter rope stretcher pitch

Pitch 3: 5.8

Leave the corner and move left into a splitter hand and fist crack through a steeper section. Continue following the crack as it becomes lower angle. When the crack veers off left, move back right into the corner. Make a belay at a small stance/ledge. 70 meter rope stretcher pitch

Pitch 4: 5th class.

Continue up the dome following the same crack system until you feel comfortable un-roping.

Descent:

Continue up 2nd class slabs for a few hundred feet to the top of the dome. Move right into the gully and back down to the base.

No fixed gear or bolted anchors on route. I wouldn't be surprised if this line has been done before us as it's such an obvious and not too difficult line, however I found no mention of it any literature or did we find any evidence of previous ascents.

Continue down from the Glen Aulin High Sierra camp. After about a mile look for the dome on the left side of the river. The corner is obvious. Find a spot to cross the river. Might be difficult in early season/high water. In September, we waded waist deep across slow moving water. Some bushwacking leads to the base.

Doubles from red c3 size to #3 camalot. Single #4, optional single #5. Pitch 2 is definitely runout without the #5, but on 5.7 terrain.