- Edit (TBD)
Description
Total Eclipse is another multi-pitch sport route in Sport Land. It climbs the right side of the east face in two pitches of fun, varied climbing.
Start in the same place as for
Tag Team
, at a 2-bolt belay anchor on a ledge just right of a big pine tree.
P1. Angle right up a slab, then move left into a slot. Step left onto another slab, and move up to a roof. Turn the roof on the right, and climb a steep face to the anchor. 5.9, 60', 8 bolts.
P2. Step up right and climb a short headwall, and continue up a slab past a bulge. Crank right onto another slab. Make some thin moves up the slab (crux), and continue up to a steep headwall.
Do not stop at the chained anchor of Tag Team left of the 9th bolt.
Instead, angle up right onto the headwall and continue for 3 more bolts to the anchor just below the tree at the top. 5.10a, 95', 12 bolts.
Descent: Two rappels, 95' and 60', back to the start.
Location
In Sport Land, just right of Tag Team.
Eds. The beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.
Protection
P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire.
Routes in Sport Land
- 7Total Eclipse5.10aSport