We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Toe The Line

FA P1: Ron Olsen, Mike Amato, and Bruno Haché, 5/6/07. P2: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 5/13/07
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Toe The Line climbs the striking east arete of Tonnere Tower in two pitches. An aesthetic line, with varied moves and good protection. It is comparable to Bihedral Arete in quality, but has a greater variety of moves.

Follow the east face approach on the Tonnere Tower page. Traverse right on the dirt ledge until you're below the east arete. Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor on the ledge. Be careful; this ledge is exposed.

P1: Climb a short dihedral right of a gully to the first bolt, and continue up to the arete. At the second bolt, step left, up, and back right (5.8); going straight up is much harder. Make a delicate step-up move (5.10b) at the third bolt.

At the fifth bolt, swing onto the left side of the arete; do not go right.

Clip the sixth bolt on the

left

side of the arete and make an airy high-step move (5.9) back onto the arete. Fun! Make some committing moves (5.9) past the 7th bolt. Continue up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left edge of the arete. 5.10b, 95', 9 bolts.

P2: Straight above the belay is the 5.11 headwall of Generous Donation; this is

not

the route. Instead, angle up right, past three bolts, around the right side of the headwall (5.10a). Climb a slab and make a fun hand traverse right to an exposed arete (5.8). Climb the arete and a steep headwall above (5.9). Continue more easily to the anchor. 5.10a, 85', 11 bolts.

Descent: Rappel 85' down to the anchor atop the first pitch; angle the rappel a little to the left. From here, rappel 95' to the starting ledge.

Alternate descent: Rappel 95' to the anchor atop the first pitch of Tag Team; this is a straighter line down from the top. Then rappel 65' to the start of Tag Team, and scramble back down to the start of Toe The Line.

Location

The prominent arete on the east face of Tonnere Tower. Route #1 in the ?beta photo?. Follow the Sport Land approach.

Protection

P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2: 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.