The Ring Leader

The Ring Leader **5.8 mixed, two bolts

The Ring Leader is a fun climb to top rope but would be a fairly serious lead in its grade.

Start 15 right of the unammed off width, climb up and slightly right past to (not so great) bolts, the second one has no hanger so bring a wired stopper or rivet hanger. Climb to the top of the left sloping ramp, the crux is the next short serious moves to gain the base of the crack. unfortunately the pro at this point is not so great. Once you gain the crack the rest of the route has fun climbing and great pro. The belay at the top is 4 bolts I think two had no hangers.

This would be an engaging lead for any 5.8-5.9 climber, however it is very easy to top rope to set up with one rope.

Sandy corridor is a great place to get in a couple quick clims as the approach is just a few minutes from the sanstone quarry parking area. It remains fairly cool and the west wall is in shade most of the day except late summer afternoons. When you first enter the corridor, you walk along a small bluff on your right. At the top is a multiple bolt anchor. This is a great area for teaching rappellimg or the use of ascenders, as the wall is fairly steep, about 35- 40' high and has a "ballroom floor" ledge on top. Continuing into the corridor, on the right you will pass a large inside, left facing corner with a large offwidth/squeeze crack. This is unnammed, FA unknown. It is hard to protect, but if you like being swallowed whole by fat cracks, this could be a fun little top rope. The climb mentioned above is a major landmark for identifing the next few climbs. The next few routes lay on the wall immediately to the right (north east) of the unnammed inside corner offwidth.

Bring 4 or 5 wired stoppers or rivet hangers, just for the bolts and anchor at top. Aside from that a light free rack is suficient the crack accepts a good variety of sizes and yes you can get a good piece in before the last buldge and face to the belay. As of January 2015 the route is now equipped with three glue-in 35kn bolts on the first section. A set of two similar glue-ins are present as an anchor also.

There are many sets of glue-ins at the top of this formation present at this time.