Bolt Route *

(one of those nasty) 5.9+ Begin directly below the vertical thin crack, seam. Climb past one bolt up into a gentle wave/bulge on smeary footing. It is easier to climb to the left of the bottom of the crack and step right into the crack up a few feet. The rest of the climb in the fingers, thin hands to hands crack is a fun romp to the top. The belay is a primo comfy ledge with excellent (yet funky) anchor or gear bckup.

This would be a very serious lead in its grade and best top roped unless you are solid at leading 5.10 - 5.10+ Unfortunately it is not well protected at the crux (close to ground fall with one bolt stud). If it were better protected down low this could be a 2-star route and perhaps would see a lot more leads.

The obvious slab to thin crack line, that is 20 feet left of 'The Ring Leader' and about 35 left of the large unnamed offwidth corner.

standard light free rack, mostly smaller gear but you may want a couple cams in the #2 -# size for the top of the crack. The anchor is two huge iron spikes beat into a nice splitter crack. I think they could haul up a cement truck but if you wish you can back these up with a cam or two in the #2.5 - #3.5 range.

As of January 2015, the route has been equipped with glue-in bolts in the bottom section. There are also glue-in anchor bolts at the top.