Paradise in Purgatory

This is a high quality moderate multi-pitch sport line that is destined to see a lot of traffic. Begin 50 yards left/south of

DH20

crack.

Pitch 1:

climb up a juggy face just left of a crack to a ledge. Climb the technical face above the ledge (crux) to easier terrain. Belay at a nice ledge,

9 bolts. 5.10b. 80 feet.

Pitch 2:

traverse right on the ledge to a chimney. Climb the chimney to another belay stance,

9 bolts. 5.8. 70 feet.

Pitch 3:

climb up and then right to gain an arete. Slab up the arete to another nice belay ledge. This pitch can be combined with pitch 2,

8 bolts. 5.8. 65 feet.

Pitch 4:

continue up a wide chimney. Cut right up a fin out of the chimney to enjoyable face climbing on chickenheads. The belay is just left of a pine tree. This pitch easily combines with pitch 5; take some long runners/draws,

8 bolts. 5.8. 100 feet.

Pitch 5:

continue past the pine tree up the face to a ledge before a steep headwall,

3 bolts. 5.6. 50 feet.

Pitch 6:

traverse right to a face that leads to a dihedral. Climb up the dihedral for 5 feet, and then traverse right onto the face (crux). Technical climbing up the face eases as you near the anchor. Rappel the route from here if you don't plan to walk off,

13 bolts. 5.10b. 100 feet.

Pitch 7:

continue on easy terrain to the top,

7 bolts. 5.2. 130 feet.

It is near the right (north) side of the Devil's Head Rock.

Draws.