- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a nice and varied seven pitch route that zigzags it's way up Devils Head Rock. A 70 meter rope is required to rappel the route. Otherwise, you'll need to walk off after the 6th pitch
Pitch 1. 9+, 13 bolts.
Pitch 2. 8+, 11 bolts.
Pitch 3, 9 , 10 bolts.
Pitch 4. 10b, 16 bolts .
Pitch 5. 9, 9 bolts.
Pitch 6. 8+, 8 bolts.
Pitch 7. 10a, 13 bolts.
Pitch 5 and 6 can be combined without much rope drag. We used a 70 meter rope and skipped/extended a bolt or two.
Per
Tal M
: the start of pitch 3 has a belay station about 20 feet to the left of the anchors for pitch 2. Don't go to the right, you'll see another station and two bolts early, but it quickly turns into a mixed route.
Location
To find this route, traverse along the base of the wall. You will pass the lowest point of the toe, and as you head back uphill, you will eventually come across a large amphitheater with black streaks along the rock in the back.
Towards the left side of the amphitheater is a short chimney that you can scramble up. You'll see two bolts at the start of the first belay.
The first pitch is a well- bolted slab the goes up and to the right and then cuts left again towards the top of the pitch. Just follow the bolts to the top.
Protection
This climb is well bolted. The longest pitch calls for 16 bolts plus the anchors.
Routes in Devil's Head Rock
- 7Time Stands Still5.10bSport