Ghetto Blaster

Follow the directions as for

White Rabbit

and take the right-most, right facing dihedral, as opposed to the left-facing one. This route is located just L of

Verschneidung

. If you enjoy the head game, this route is for you. The moves actually are fun, but potentially dangerous.

The crux move is a reachy mantle/flag from poor flakes to and though an overhang to pinch a horizontal arete-like feature above - matching on the sloping pinch and pulling up to a toe-hook is exciting above crappy small gear. It felt like solid 5.10 to me. The very tall folks might find it easier than I did.

Perhaps some holds broke between when the route was rated and now, which could have produced some spectacular falls.

This is a death route. The Rossiter guidebook rated it 5.9 (no S in the Boulder Climbs South) and the route was described as S in the text. The route is VS. About 30' off of the big ledge you will do a balancey mover on poor rock with bad or no protection. Then you will place a red or brown tricam behind a bad flake and do some more 5.8+ moves to gain the dihedral. There is a right-hand traverse that has terrible rock- thus you can not use just any hold. The crux pro was a 2" cam behind a poor flake, 12' below and to the left of the crux on a long sling, then a few brass nuts in poor rock, 5' down, and a #3 BD stopper just below the move.

There is a lot of very poor rock and many runouts on the route, some potentially lethal.

You can traverse from the top of

Verschneidung

(5.7 sewn-up) to the rap tree above Ghetto Blaster and TR the crux pitch from there if so desired.