Long John Direct (Original Aid Start)

This is the direct start to

Long John Wall

. It is more aesthetic and much better protected than the P1 slot/runout traverse option to the left.

Start as for

Long John Wall

. At the roof on pitch 1, do not go left into the slot. Instead, go past underclings, and move straight up into the left-facing corner. Continue to the top of

Long John Wall

.

Pass a couple of obvious staging areas, and you will see Long John Wall Tower standing tall over the center of West Ridge.

Long John Wall

starts below this prominence, at a low angle bushy crack leading to big flakes and a weakness left of a steep roof.

A standard rack to 3".