Buzzard Guts

This a traverse of most (and the most often climbed portion) of the Buzzard Rocks cliff face. Climb to the bolt on Anonymous Flake and begin trending left. You follow a system of cracks and ledges most of the way, encountering a few awkward moves along the way. Most of the climbing is in the 5.4 range. We set up easy belay stances and trees the entire way. The route ends when you top out on Three Amigos.On any downward traversing pitch, consider letting the stronger climber follow rather than lead.  Route finding skills may be tested on your first attempt.Depending on time of the year, you'll encounter some or a lot of lichen and loose pine needles, which are very slippery.It may not be a good idea to climb this on a very busy day.

Hike along the summit ridge to the top of Anonymous Flake (marked by an open flat area with a pine tree; see photo). Continue down the trail another 10-15 feet, find a trail on the right at a faint saddle/dip in the trail, and scramble down. Near the top of this descent gully is a rocky V-shaped notch. It's easiest to down climb this at the tip of the V notch, facing the rock and stemming. Continue straight down hill for another 20-30 feet before turning skiers' right toward the base of the cliff. This route begins at the base of Anonymous Flake and ends at Three Amigos.

Just bring your trad rack. You'll clip a few bolts along the way, but anything from small stoppers to BD #3 cams will work.The protection may be PG in some sections of the traverse.