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Peak Mountain 3

Half and Half

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Description

The bottom is easy slabby, but some people may get a little freaked by the distance between bolts. The top is easy, whith the crux move getting over a small roof near the top. There are left and right variations at the crux that finish at different spots (and probably require a bit of trad gear for the rest of the route). You can easily split the route into two pitches with a decent ledge and tree about 50 feet from the bottom. Makes for a good intro to real multi-pitch climbing. Good stances for clipping all the bolts.

Location

The route tops out on the ridge trail, from which you can hike back down or rappel. A 60-meter rope is too short to rappel from the bolts but a 70-meter rope will work (it'll be close, though, so be sure to knot the ends). You could also do a 2-pitch rappel using the ledge and tree that's about 50 feet above the base.

Protection

UPDATE: AS of 4/23/2017, according to Nick Lieby, this route now has a 2-bolt anchor and rap rings.

You can climb it using just the 7 khaki-colored bolts, or you can protect the crux move with a ".5-"2 cam (I used a yellow #2 BD Camalot C4). The rest of the route is either well-bolted or easy slabs with nowhere to put trad pro even if you had it. Clip the first bolt from the ground before you start climbing. If you climb this using only the bolts and blow the crux you are likely to take a 40 foot tumble and deck. A single cam or slinging a tree is highly recommended.