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Peak Mountain 3

Steve Garvey Memorial Route

FA Jason Denver, Syd Howard, Jonathan Garlough
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1, 5.7R 50'. Climb up the face past loose flakes up to the right side of the roof. Continue up the right facing inside corner to its top. Walk 10' left and set up belay on comfortable ledge. Pitch 2, 5.10a, 5.8 pg-13, 80'. Climb up short slabs to a headwall. Step left and continue up and up to the first bolt in a blankish slab. Pull through crux (.10a) and continue over two more short headwalls until reaching a third one with a thin seam continuing up. Climb this and set up a gear belay. (Pitches 2&3 may be combined) Pitch 3, 5.11c, 40'. Put in gear under the roof, reach up and clip the bolt, then go for it. A couple of insecure moves on an overhanging wall lead to a bucket hold and then the top out.

Location

The route starts under the right side of the huge roof 20ft off the ground in the center of the cliff, just left of Layback Route. Walk off or rap down either Locals Only or Layback Route in 2 pitches.

Protection

A standard rack to 3" should be sufficient. Both belays are on gear.