- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start the same as Never Mind The Bollocks. The route was climbed as one long pitch on the first ascent. P1: Climb the opening slab past two bolts to the tree ledge with the large pine. Move right and up a short block to gain the overlap (bolt). Make difficult moves to gain the large flake and a bolt. Climb the flake and continue up past another bolt to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 90 5.10a P2: Climb the flakes and face placing gear to a small pine below the roof. Move up some stacked blocks to a stance (bolt). Move right out the corner/arête on a mild run-out to a piece before you pull through the roof and onto a huge ledge (The Chinos Lounge). Move up one more tier to a two bolt anchor on the summit block. 80 5.10a PG
Location
Up on a block right of Wets Lichen Dreams. Same as Nevermind The Bollocks
Protection
Bring A Standard Rack
Routes in 3. The Big Wall
- 9Locals Only5.10aTrad