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Peak Mountain 3

West Country

FA Bob Summers and John Fisher, July 1969
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. (160ft) From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.

P2. (80ft) This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.

P3. (125ft) Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.

P4. (160ft) More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a belay after the crack runs out and the angle drops to 3rd class.

Location

See photo for Stately Pleasure Dome

Protection

standard full rack.