- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route has one crux low, one in the middle, and one near the end. You will understand the feats reference by the end. All of these are bolt protected. The trad climbing between them is really fun and might be one or two number grades easier than the bolted sections. The gear is bomber when and where you want it. Don't forget to stick a cam straight down after you do the traverse after the single bolt. You will have to make a move above this ledge before you find a really bomber small stopper. Extend them both with full length slings to reduce drag. This route is a great way to get to Reefer Madness. You can do it as a single pitch, just be aware that you will need to have your second follow. A single 70M rope will not allow you to lower off and clean the pitch. There are ways to do it so both people can lead it. You can rappel or lower to the ledge that is the traversing first pitch of Reefer Madness. Then you can untie and easily down-climb so your partner can pull the rope and lead it. The first bolts and some gear will still be in so if he is a stickler about not having any gear in you might need two ropes. Whatever you decide TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF THE ROPE prior to anyone leading it. Not sure an 80M would work but I will test that when I take mine down there in the near furture.
Location
Starts about 30 feet down the hill to the right from the start of Reefer Madness. Thin face moves and four bolts lead up to a short right facing corner at the left end of the long roof about 20 feet up.
Protection
Bolts, stoppers including the small ones and doubles up to yellow Camalots. At the single bolt midway up you will move right, before you stand up on the ledge place gear behind it. It will make the move up to a very small stopper much less nerve wracking. Be sure to use extended draws for the next few pieces or the rope drag can get unpleasant.
Routes in Aegir
- 21Reeferless Feat5.11-Trad