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Peak Mountain 3

Sea Demons

FA EFR, GK, Adrea Richmond, Byron Hempel 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Three pitches of wildly dissimilar yet amazing climbing. Pitch one 5.11 starts up a lower angle slab and trending left will not hurt you at bolt 3. It finishes on a steep headwall with a big holds. Pitch two 5.12- starts from the big ledge and climbs steep rock to below a smooth headwall with a bolt. Climb up and clip the bolt then step back down and traverse right about 5 feet to attack the crux of this pitch. You will reach a left angling overlap where you will need some of that single rack to protect the traverse left. After turning the overlap you will work past three bolts then you will need a few more pieces of gear to reach the anchors. Pitch three 5.12- is a thin technical face climb that zigs and zags up less steep rock. It is pretty much opposite of Pitch two. Rap the route with knots in the ends of the ropes. To reach the ledge at the start of Pitch two use at least one of the chain draws or get a good  swing going or you could end up in space.

Location

Starts about 10 feet left of Trident.

Protection

A single rack up to #3 Camalot. A half dozen stoppers won't hurt if you like using them.