The Corrections

Like Jonathan Franzen's book by the same name, The Corrections is all about fixing old problems. In this climb's case, the culmination is one of Durango's best and, as of this time, hardest established routes.

The line was aided many years ago; the first ascentionist left only a few studs and a bashie as evidence of his passage. After a reconnaissance on aid, Marcus re-envisioned this line as a free climb and began work. A month later, we had The Corrections.

Begin by climbing Punta Magna through the finger crack bulge. From the stem below Punta Magna's crux, head right along a ramp to a bolt near the arete. Continue up and right with pumpy moves along a slopy rail to a vicious sequence to get into the dihedral. Continue up the dihedral and clip the anchor on the ledge above.

Begin as for

Punta Magna

, but climb right along the ramp about 40 feet up.

Gear from tiny to 1.5" for the first part of

Punta Magna

then 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Due to the traverse out of the corner and around the arete from

Punta Magna

, one must either use double-rope technique or implement many very long slings and back clean for the gear in the corner.