- Edit (TBD)
Description
The entire route is rated 5.7 PG/R, but the first pitch is a nice, well-protected 5.6 that is worthy of attention.
P1: Establish yourself onto the left-leaning, right-facing ramp, and make a few steep moves by a crack to get up into the right-facing corner capped by a roof above. Step left to escape the roof, then up the face to the ledge and rap station (50'). 5.6, G (but no gear until you've mounted the ramp)
P2: From the ledge, find the line of least resistance, to continue up another 40 ft. to another tree rappel station. The easiest path wanders left and right through the lichen. Protection is scarce, so do not pass up an opportunity to place something. A 60m rope gets you down in one rappel. 5.7, PG/R
Location
Walking away from Grease Gun Groove, look for a left-leaning but right-facing ramp that leads to a crack, whispering "climb me!" and obey it.
Protection
Standard rack.
Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
- 15Fat and Weak5.7Trad