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Peak Mountain 3

After You

FA Bill Goldner and Muriel Mayo, 1962
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: Climb the clean low angle quartz featured slab 10ft to the right of Yum Yum Yab Yum. Belay at the detached block below a small roof directly above. 5.5 (G), 60ft.

Pitch 2: (not recommended). Step right at the belay and climb around the roof on the right side (crux), through tufts of grass, briars, lichen, loose blocks and dirt. Continue climbing up the loose lichen covered face. Belay either at the 2nd belay ledge for Yum Yum (left) or continue up and belay 20ft higher on a small dirty ledge. 5.7 (PG/R), 80-100ft.

Pitch 3 (recommended): From Yum Yum belay climb straight up, or from alternate belay, walk left and climb through a short overhang at a vertical crack and then step right at the GT Ledge and climb the multi tiered roof with a crack and pine tree about 15-20ft up. There is a fixed pin (bong) just below the crux in a horizontal. Gear to 2 inches protects the crux horizontals. Angle left through the roofs and through the roof on left side. Scramble up lower angled slabs to the top. Be aware that there are no gear anchor options at the top, and large trees are very far from the cliff edge. 5.7 (G), 80ft.

If for some reason this climb appeals to you, I'd recommend doing Pitch 2 of Yum Yum. Dirty and loose doesn't even describe P2 of After You.

Location

Start: Same as Yum Yum, gradually becoming 10ft right of Yum Yum Yab Yum. Walkoff or rappel. We rappeled off the Gelsa rappel, with doubles to the ground. I believe there is a rappel to the climbers left, but other than seeing folks rappel it and seeing intermediate anchors, I have yet to locate the cliff top anchor. Walkoff only takes about 15 minutes.

Protection

Pitch 1 is finicky, tricams might be ideal. P2 is difficult to protect since much of the rock is suspect. Small cams and a #3 at the first belay, finger size cams at the second. Fist size protect the 3rd pitch nice, and/or a screamer for the bong.