Warlock Pinchers

Direct (right) start to

Magie Noire

, with four bolts, joining

Magie Noire

over the lip of the prow/jutting roof feature. This is the eighth route in from the left, or second from the right.

I put the first bolt so you can stand on the ground and clip it to protect the opening moves. Use this, or use it to auger up and pre-clip the second, or skip this and just clip the second. Choose your own adventure....

Boulder, shouldery, on nice blue-and-black rock reminiscent of the Winchester Cave at Rifle.

Right side of the Stepping Stones sport crag.

7 bolts plus two-bolt anchors.