Magie Noire

The start is bouldery in nature. Although rock quality is questionable, this route offers nice powerful and sustained face moves all the way up to the crux at 4th and 5th bolt. Worth 3 stars but deserves only 2 stars due to rock quality. Body positioning and precise slopy smearing is key to a successful ascent.

Walk west after the Nip and Tuck pull out, walk across the guard rail on your right, pass the El Barrio boulder cave, then go up the short loose talus. This is the Stepping Stones crag. Past the Quebec Connection dihedral, Magie Noire is the obvious, black streak on the left, at the right edge of the pile of overhanging, stacked blocks.

7 bolts and a top anchor.