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Peak Mountain 3

Quartz Groove

FA Mark Ronca, Carlie Ronca, 7/07
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun climbing on solid rock with some R rated runouts on moderate terrain. Crux moves are well protected.

Pitch 1 - climb out the right side of a low roof then up and right in an arching flake system. Meet the long roof, then go up to the ledge with a small tree belay (5.8, 100 feet).

Pitch 2 - step left then up into the quartz groove. Make a traverse right above the long roof and up a crack onto the slab (5.8, 80 feet). Belay in the pod belay.

Pitch 3 - from the pod belay, climb out the left (run out) and into the roof, traverse right under the roof (small wires TCUs) and up through the notch. Join the final pitch of Run out of Love to the top (5.9, 100 feet).

Variation 4a - Quartz Groove Direct, 5.9. Pitch 2- climb the quartz groove feature directly. Move up into the quartz grove and right passing a horizontal crack and bolt. Continue up to the slab and belay in the pod belay (90 feet). FA: Mark Ronca, 9/07.

Variation 4b - Center Rib, 5.10c. Leave the pod belay on the left, and climb the slab to the roof. Move straight up steep rock at an overlap. Continue up the final slab exiting right. FA: Mark Ronca, Carlie Ronca, 9/07.

Variation 4c - Tweaked Cam Crack, 5.11a. Leave the pod belay on the left, and head for the left side of the steep rib. Climb a steep finger crack to a bolt, then finish on the upper slab. FA: Mark Ronca, Bernard Gillett, 11/07.

Location

Start 30 feet left of

That’s What the Rope’s For

at the right side of a low roof.

Protection

TCUs, small wires, and a rack to a #2.