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Peak Mountain 3

Run Out Of Love

FA Mark Ronca, Carlie Ronca, 6/07
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs the long overhang to the right of the Quartz Groove. Rock quality on this route is more friable than others on Mary's Left particularly on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Protection can be challenging and runs small. Some runouts are found on moderate ground.

Pitch 1 - work up the left-facing flake system to a bulge left of a small tree. Pull through the bulge (poor pro), and belay at the long roof system at a left-facing corner (5.8, 80 feet). You may also traverse into this point from the start of Bloody Mary.

Pitch 2 - step out right into the roof system and jam cracks up then traversing left. Locate a thin seam (small wires and friable rock), and pull out of the roof and onto the slab (5.10d, 60 feet). Belay out left.

Pitch 3 - head up the slab toward the left side of an A-shaped roof. Now angle up and left in thin cracks and pass through the notch. Traverse up and right, and belay the same as Bloody Mary’s 3rd belay (5.9, 60 feet).

Pitch 4 - move up and left into a steep, dark, water streak. Pull over the lip then climb a groove to the top (5.10c, 60 feet).

Location

It is approximately 60 feet left and downhill of

Bloody Mary

near the low point on the cliff.

Protection

Small wires, TCUs, and cams up to #2.