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Peak Mountain 3

Crescent

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Description

This is a fun route but requires lots of big cams to protect well. I doubt anyone owns six #4 Camalots for this one, thus the S rating.

Start in the large crack a few feet right of Smoother. This crack curves up and right and is rather striking from afar. Unfortunately, the crack is an offwidth size and is awkward to climb and only useful for protection. It is even awkward to protect as the easiest climbing is on the face a few feet right of the crack (where you can't reach the crack), and you may have to reach far inside it to place a #4 Camalot.

After about 120', you reach a sort of pod, and above this the crack narrows to about 3" for a short section. You can belay here off a #3 Camalot, or continue. After 30 more feet, the crack starts to lean right significantly and the climbing becomes much easier. After walking right 50' (using a 60m rope from the ground), you will discover you are out of rope (and the crack is still 8"). My second had to climb up about 10' so I could reach a section where the crack narrows and I could belay (save one or two big cams for the belay).

The next pitch follows another wide flarey crack which continues up. This crack is friendlier and offers several placements for small pro, although one section is filled with grass. Move left at a horizontal crack, traversing until it is easy to go up (this point is about 30' right of the "320' anchor" on Smoother). Continue up and right beside another large crack to the ridge crest.

You can do one easy pitch up the ridge, and downclimb or rap the Green Chimney, or continue two more pitches (when in doubt, head left) until the ridge become broken and very easy, and then walk off west. The actual summit of the West Ironing Board is just north of here and can easily be scrambled up from the NE.

Protection

The first pitch is a crack which is 4-8 inches wide for 200' (except for one spot at 120' where it narrows to 3"). To protect this pitch well would require many #4-#5 Camalots. Giant hexes and #7 tri-cams would also work.