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Peak Mountain 3

Seams Like a Crack

FA George Bracksieck and Jim Desrosiers
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Yesterday, I started up the seam, not optimistic about finding pro. With cleaning, I found placements for small Tricams (two pinks, a red, a blue), a #3 C4, a yellow C3, and doubles of #0.4 and 0.5. When the seam ended, I placed a red C3 and a yellow Alien in a horizontal. I continued, unprotected for 40 feet, up the steepening slab. Eventually reaching a good horizontal, I cammed a pink Tricam (wishing I had another 0.4 Camalot) and traversed left to the top of the chimney. For the belay, I placed a bombproof #0.75 about 10 feet west.

We left a sling and rapped down the southern of the two short, overhanging chimneys directly to the west. Once we were on the ground, our rap route looked downclimbable. Once on the ground, we made the mistake of descending west and south, eventually down the flood-ravaged gulch. Going north and up, around the north end of the Ironing Boards would be better.

Location

This is the thin seam/crack that lies between

I Lichen Chimneys

and

I Lichen Offwidths

. It is obvious in the pic posted under each of those routes.

Protection

Tricams (three pinks, a red, a blue), a #3 C4, a yellow C3, triples of #0.4, doubles of #0.5, a red C3, a yellow Alien, and a #0.75.