- Edit (TBD)
Description
Awesome climb. Beware for dirty holds after rain.
1st bolt is a bit high but clipping stance is solid on a bomber horizontal and a big right hand flake. Balance and technique are essential for gaining the second and third bolts. Taller climbers can follow bolt line but shorter climbers might be forced into a detour out left that ends is a hard deadpoint off of non-existent feet. After clipping 3rd bolt use bad dish and high smeared foot to gain flake/layback system on the left to an easier finish.
Note: this route used to end 12 ft short of the top of the cliff, it now ends at the top of the cliff and the anchors are reachable from the gravel covered ledge.
Location
Route lies immediatly left of
The Contortionist
and 2 routes left of classic but heavily guided 5.7.
Protection
Newly replaced bolts and Anchor by Jim Taylor. Stick-clip or place a bomber .3 Camalot about three feet below the flake. Bolted anchor.
Routes in Junkyard Wall
- 12Reachers of Habit5.11bSport