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Bo Knows
Description
Hopefully some folks who stumble upon this will be old/savvy enough to remember the Nike commercials from BITD with Bo Jackson, one of history's greatest athletes. One thing for sure; Bo knew his sports.
This route has some awesome features, including one of the coolest iron deposits I've seen, but as first ascents go it's another scrap; short and to the point. The climbing is mostly easy until the top of the flake, where one will encounter a slightly funky mantle. This sets you up for the crux, which is above your hopefully-good gear. I'm pretty sure the massive flake is sturdy but I never truly tested it. The boulder problem above is what the route boils down to. Once complete, you get good gear again before the final boulder problem to the ledge. At the top there is a rhodo you can sling before shuffling over and up to the "V-Slot" anchor.
Most of us found the slimpers to be condition-dependent. The right conditions will equate to an easier route. The wrong conditions will likely equal desperation.
Location
The right side of the obvious mammoth flake just to the right of "Who Knows", then slightly straight up through the only holds to the top of the wall.
Protection
Like other routes I've done of this nature, I thoroughly inspected this thing to wire it in. I did not want to risk the fall above the flake, and I had a lot of solo time on my hands. If you're intrepid enough to go up on-sight, good on ya. Take a few cams in the BD .3 and .4 range. I also placed a BD .75. That's pretty much it.
Routes in Junkyard Wall
- 3Bo Knows5.11Tr · Trad