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Peak Mountain 3

Wild Things

FA John Storm, 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Awesome route high up on the East Gate. Steep hands into a slot. In the back of the slot is a hand to finger crack. Work your way up the slot the best you can. I think I spun 3 or 4 times on my way up trying to figure out what might be the best approach.

Up above, the slot narrows to a squeeze and the crack in the back turns into a horizontal finger crack. Now is the time to get serious. Make the decision which way to face and then change your mind a few times. Work the finger crack, which has now slammed shut, out through the horizontal section.

Then figure out the beta to get to the nice, relaxing, less-than-vertical handcrack above the crux.

Protection

good gear the whole way.

a few hands pieces for the initial section (#1 and 2 camalots)

I placed a #3 at the start of the slot and then some fingers pieces down to a blue TCU on your way out the steep section. Another 1-2 #2's and perhaps a #3 cam would be nice for the handcrack above and for building a belay anchor.

Head over left to the top of The Flakes and rap down the anchor there.