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Peak Mountain 3

Bloodline

FA Drew Bedford-1986?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a fairly sustained route, but the crux is right above the second knifeblade. After you execute the crux you must climb a few feet above above the extruding knifeblade before you can get in reliable gear. I think the pins are solid, but you do risk falling onto them, hence the PG-13 rating. The climbing sequences are tip-top. At times the cams impede the jams, so I found I had to climb through some sequences and place my gear below me.

At 2/3rds height, clip the bolt (new) and do the ninja move left to the right facing flake. Layback, romp up, and finish the low-angled slab to clip the chains. It is a little hard to communicate with your belayer from the top, so consider rappelling. Also, the climb is rated 12b in the Wasatch Guide, but I feel it likely warrants 12c.

Location

The obvious right leaning fingercrack that starts off the ledge/pillar, and sports the 2 knifeblades. 2/3rds the way up on the East Gate buttress wall.

Protection

small nuts, draws, tips to off-fingers cams with one handsized unit. Lower off chains at top