BD Right Up & In

Some interesting moves in some interesting rock situations.

directions: Start from the two-bolt-two-chain anchor at the top of the route "Southeast Crack". Directly up the face, then pull over the right side of the roof by its end.

. . Variation (much less difficult like 5.5-5.6): Diagonal up right (outside the Big Dihedral) on crack with broken rock. Next straight up a line of weakness. See roof above right, but instead traverse left around corner into the Big Dihedral.

Next traverse horizontal left (above big roof) to reach the dark V slot. Finish up the outside corner which forms right side of V slot. Up onto wide flat ledge with rappel anchor.

descent

: There is a rappel station at the top of this route. For more details,

see the Area page for this sector 9 Chouinard

.

top-roping

: For ideas about how to set up Top-Rope,

see the Area page for this sector 9 Chouinard

.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Start at the two-bolt anchor (with one chain hanging off each bolt) which is at the top of the route "SouthEast Crack".

This could be reached by climbing up "Southeast Crack" or "BD Right Crack", or by climbing about  2/3 of "BD Left Crack", then walking right on ledge. Or by lowering in from the top platform rappel anchor.

See on this Photo

Top-Roping of this route is possible with some care in flipping the rope sideways several times to avoid big side-swing if fall.

For ideas on how to reach the top and set up anchors for Top-Roping,

see the area page for this sector Chouinard

.

But so far the only way to reach the top of this route at a difficulty not much harder than the route itself, is to start in sector Dostie.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.