We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Thinking of Patricia

FA TR Krystina Maixner
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Two diagonal cracks (sometimes one) on the right side of the Big Dihedral with lots of interesting moves, more laybacks than jams. Sustained vertical face.

If only this were longer . . . but . . .

Could be followed by the route "SouthEast Roof", then descend back to start with two rappels (or single rappel with 70-meter rope).

Start up right side of central inside corner of Big Dihedral, then diagonal right up crack (or two cracks). Finish at two-bolt anchor (not connected), and each of the bolt hangers has a chain hanging from it.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

name: "Patricia" as in Bowl - (earlier called "BD Right Crack").

FA first ascent

? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it

and

supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Start on wide platform at base of the Big Dihedral, on right side of the inside corner.

Reach this platform by walking left along base of sector 8 Dostie, then up and left around corner on rough trail. Trail goes out right away from rock face then up + left toward it. See the Big Dihedral above left. Soon leave approach trail and scramble up left to wide platform.

See on this Photo

Protection

Top-Roping: Shares the same two-bolt anchor with the route "SouthEast Crack".

Likely want to use a long sling to get the rope-attachment point more over top of this route.

Likely want to place some Trad directionals (mainly cams) to keep the climber near the route if they fall or want to rest.

For ideas on how to reach the top and set up anchors for Top-Roping,

see the area page for this sector Chouinard

.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown so far - (but the climbing tends to follow cracks);