Merlin's Wand

Merlin’s Wand 5.8- G / ( 5.4-5.5R ) F.A. R. Hall and S. Matz spring 2013

Slightly thinner than its neighbor, Merlin.

P1 – Climb directly up (5.4-5.5R until the first bolt),(bolts near the cruxes). Above the 2nd bolt continue straight up keeping 6 to 10 feet left of Merlin. Continue, passing a 3rd 3/8" bolt to the Merlin belay. 115-120ft 5.8- ( The Merlin belay/rap station is two new 3/8” bolts) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !

Rap from the Merlin Chain anchor with a single, full-length 60m, or double 50m; or....

P2 – ...Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.

START- Look for the 2 new 3/8” SS bolts about 25-30 ft right of the "False" Holy Smoke flake and 6-8 feet left of the BLACK 3/8" 1st bolt of Merlin. (Only the 1st Merlin bolt is visible.) Belay on the “path” in the trees about 20-25ft the right of the climb. Traverse in on the 2” ledge until directly below the two, new 3/8” bolts.

3 short draws, Optional: one long (6 ft) sling to also clip the 2nd bolt of Merlin. Use the Merlin anchor/rap.