Holy Grail

Holy Grail 5.6-5.7 ( 5.4 -5.5 R/X) FA Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982 - Once was 5.7X due to a rusty, partially-driven, “spinning”, 30+ year old, ¼” bolt at the crux 100 feet up and 40 ft above the 1st bolt; a new 3/8" SS bolt now protects this crux, eliminating the “X” from the 5.7. There is no sign of the “double bolt anchor” mentioned in Webster, but the upper ¼” bolt still has its epoxy residue!P1 – Climb up to the right-leaning flake (cam protection possible), step over and then directly up on the clean, orange-ish rock on good, “crisp” holds and continue up 50-60 feet (5.4-5.5 R/X) to the first bolt, where a 3/8" (unfortunately, not SS)  now replaces the old ¼” relic. The route climbs directly up [see NOTE] to the 2nd bolt [crux 5.6-5.7, just above it] now a 3/8” SS bolt, with the old ¼” left in place for historical reasons. Above the crux move(s) keep your eyes peeled for the brushed holds in the dark rock “ headwall”. Finish at a clump of small maple trees set with an anchor. 180 ft 5.6-5.7, (5.4-5.5 R/X) As always, check the cord of the anchor for animal chewings or human cuttings.NOTE- about 6 ft above, and 6 ft right of Bolt#1 a flake can be threaded to take a downward pull, but the flake is too 'creaky' for a cam placement and not really necessary. P2 - Rap with 2 ropes, or finish easily on the upper slabs.  You can also traverse (5.0-5.3) 60-70 ft to the Merlin rap-station/belay and rap to the ground with one full-length 60m rope.The easiest, most well protected exit from the slab. From the "maple tree clump belay" move easily right and up to the overlap. Over this a foot or two left of a bush (at a bolt, same place as False Holy Smoke and also easily reached from both the anchors of  False Holy Smoke and Merlin). Instead of straight up as for False Holy Smoke, move diagonally up and right to a curving flake (small gear possible). Step over at brushed footholds about half-way up the flake and climb the slab to a fixed 2-inch aluminum "bong" piton. Walk 15(+/-) ft right along the horizontal ledge, then easily straight up to the overlap. Surmount this about 5 ft left of its right end at a sort of "step" with a bolt above. ("crux" 5.4-5.5) Continue 10 ft to the Upper Merlin Rap station. 90-100 ft 5.4-5.5 To get back to the "Bugs" rap station and the hiking trail, take the climber's path that starts a few feet above the rap station.

START – About 15-20 ft left of "False" Holy Smoke. There is a shallow right-facing flake, that leans right, about 15-20 feet off the ground. Climb up to the flake, step over it and directly up the orange-red rock. The first bolt is NOT visible from the ground, but if you step away from the cliff you can see a 2-3ft flake about 50 ft up, the 1st bolt is 6 ft below that (and, the flake itself is threadable.) This seems the most 'direct' start.

ALTERNATE - It is also possible the FA party climbed up to the "bulge" mentioned in "The Old Smokeys' Return" and climbed over the LEFT side of this and moved a bit left to gain the like leading directly up to the 1st bolt. These moves (left over the bulge) are more difficult and unprotected. Maybe(?) 5.6 R/X or so.

Medium cam down low, one 1/4" bolt (bring a 'Screamer'), natural thread (best done with 8 or 9 mm cord UNTIED to thread), new 3/8" bolt. The Cluster of maple trees has solid anchor.