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Peak Mountain 3

Dolemite Is My Name

FA Evan Wisheropp (TRS), Lead open.
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UPDATED 

Description

Huge offwidth roof just above the first pitch of the Cajun Buttress. Start up the 5.8 corner variation, but continue out the huge roof. The roof in total is about 25', though the obvious start cuts off 10' of the roof (easy climbing, nothing lost). The rock is very featured, with lots of bumps and divots. Though none of them are exactly "sharp," a poorly placed elbow would be extremely displeasing. Like Vedauwoo, the key here is slow, deliberate placements of hands, knees, elbows, etc.. Just a bit more-so here.

I was rigged a fixed line off some cams and lowered through the chimney, cleaning out numerous chockstones on the way down. After a good rest, I toprope-soloed the route first go! Just barely. It would be a hell of a lot less scary on lead. I wish I had gear and a partner with me...

Location

Big roof above the Cajun Buttress. Either climb Cajun Buttress or rap in from the rim.

Protection

A few .5-3" cams for the start, then 5-8" for the roof.

For the anchor I used a yellow link cam and a .75. That was pretty much all that fit there, so I backed it up with a nut and small cam 60' higher up the slab (easily done since I was climbing it on a fixed line). I will probably put in a bolted anchor eventually when I return to lead it. But don't wait for me, go have your fun if you want to put in an anchor and send it.