The Nights Watch

Route climbs the black streak on the buttress between the Cajun Couloir and the Haas (Hourglass) Couloir.

Tyler and I put this route up in one go and drilled everything on lead. We drilled 20 bolts and left about ten pins fixed on the leads. Of the 20 bolts, 8 were used for anchors. This route is worth repeating.

Pitch 1: first 35 meters are wildly loose and about 5.8. the last 15 meters were the route crux and seemed mid-5.10--bolts and good rock.

Pitch 2: a few fixed pins in the pitch crux protect the first fifteen feet. (a bolt might be a nice addition here). The rest of the 30 meter pitch is about 5.8 and a few bolts help protect the climbing.

Pitch 3: several pins and a few bolts protect the mostly 5.9 climbing.

Pitch 4: some fun slab climbing protected by bolts gets you below the giant boulder. Under and right of this huge obstacle gets you off the fifth class terrain.

Cams to 3 BD and a few nuts and pins should do the trick.